欧洲零售商效仿中国开启直播模式；Zara母公司加速布局元宇宙；维密推出青少年品牌……
中购联 2022-04-24 12:44 9.0w阅读
「第117期|2022年4月18-24日」
01|伦敦知名百货Fortnum&Mason开设多哈首店伦敦知名百货公司Fortnum&Mason，将在2022年FIFA世界杯之前，于卡塔尔旺多姆广场开设多哈首家分店。自今年1月起，该百货公司的高管一直在与潜在的特许经营合作伙伴进行谈判。Fortnum&Mason以其位于伦敦皮卡迪利大街181号总店闻名，该店已经经营了300多年。它是世界上最著名的零售店之一，拥有女王和威尔士亲王的皇室授权。01|London's famous department Fortnum&Mason opens its first Doha storeLondon department Fortnum&Mason will open its first doha store in Qatar's vendome square ahead of the 2022 FIFA World Cup. Fortnum&Mason’s executives have been in talks with potential franchise partners since January.Fortnum&Mason is known for its main store at 181 Piccadilly in London, which has been in business for over 300 years. It is one of the most famous retail stores in the world and has a royal warrant from the Queen and the Prince of Wales.美国老牌百货公司梅西百货近日宣布将在北卡罗来纳州中部开设一个物流中心，为其不断增长的全渠道业务提供服务。据称，这个占地140万平方英尺的设施将于2024年开业，将占梅西百货全国数字供应链容量的近30%。同时梅西将雇用近2800名员工运营、为消费者配送商品。此外，梅西百货还警告称，由于通货膨胀有可能拖累消费者的需求，尤其是中低收入消费者的需求，更多消费者可能会面临重要的花费选择：去购物中心购物还是度假。02|Macy's to open a new large logistics centerMacy's announced it will open a logistics center in central North Carolina to support its growing omnichannel business.The 1.4 million square foot facility will open in 2024 and will account for nearly 30% of Macy's national supply capacity. Nearly 2,800 people will be employed to operate the center and deliver goods to consumers directly.In addition, Macy's warned that as inflation threatens consumers’ demand, especially among lower - and middle-income consumers, more consumers could face an important spending choice: shopping at the mall or on vacation.美国老牌百货公司J.C. Penney将推行新的业务战略，专注于服务核心客户。J.C. Penney公司的新任首席执行官马克·罗森近日指出，将该公司的重点放在取悦其核心客户群上，而不是把精力放在来新客户群上。据悉，J. C. Penney公司将专注于家庭收入中位数在50000美元至75000美元之间的客户，他们正在寻找具有优秀性价比的服装和物品。03|J.C. Penney launches new business strategyJ.C. Penney is launching a new business strategy to focus on serving its core customers.Marc Rosen, J.C. Penney's new CEO, recently pointed to the company's attention on pleasing its core customer base rather than on new ones. J. C. Penney will focus on customers with a median household income of $50,000 to $75,000 who are looking for clothing and items that offer excellent value.04|Harvey Nichols 在香港开设「HN NFT Vault」零售空间4月20日，Harvey Nichols 在其香港太古广场店推出了NFT零售概念空间「HN NFT Vault」。Harvey Nichols表示，这是第一家提供精选NFT的大型奢侈品百货公司，内容产品包括Cryptopunks、Bored Ape Yacht Club、CloneX x Takashi Murakami、Azuki 和Doodle。本次零售空间接受加密货币和信用卡支付，以上系列中的大多数NFT都可以在HN NFT Vault上独家购买。04|Harvey Nichols opens HN NFT Vault retail space in Hong KongOn 20 April, Harvey Nichols launched the HN NFT Vault, an NFT retail concept space, at its Pacific Place store in Hong Kong. Harvey Nichols stated it is the first major luxury department store to offer a selection of NFT, with products including Cryptopunks, Bored Ape Yacht Club, CloneX Takashi Murakami, Azuki and Doodle. The retail space accepts cryptocurrency and credit card payments, and most of the NFT in the above series can be purchased on the HN NFT Vault.韩国乐天世界的新主题乐园“釜山乐天世界冒险乐园”于3月31日正式开园。与韩国首尔乐天世界不同的是，釜山乐天世界冒险乐园是一个户外主题公园，以“童话王国”为主题，建有6个主题区域和10余项游乐设施。该乐园占地 15.8万平方米。6个精心打造的主题区包括廷克瀑布（Tinker Falls）、彩虹泉（Rainbow Springs）、奇幻森林（Wonder Woods）、罗莉王国花园（Queen Lorry's Royal Garden）、欢乐草地（Joyful Meadows）和地下乐园（Underland）。05|Lotte opened a new theme park in South KoreaSouth Korea Lotte World new theme park, Lotte World Adventure Busan Theme Park, officially opened on 31 March Unlike Lotte World in Seoul, Busan Lotte World Adventure Park is an outdoor theme park with six theme areas and more than 10 rides under the theme of fairy Tale Kingdom.The park covers an area of 158,000 square meters. Six themed areas include Tinker Falls, Rainbow Springs, Wonder Woods, Queen Lorry's Royal Garden, Joyful Meadows and Underland.01|CK x PALACE 70%的产品发布当天即售罄据时尚商业快讯，Calvin Klein日前与滑板品牌PALACE推出的联名系列中70%的产品在发布当天迅速售罄，一度导致官网瘫痪。01|70% of CK x Palace series are sold out on the day of releaseAccording to the FashionNetwork news, 70% of the products in the joint series launched by Calvin Klein and skateboard brand PALACE sold out quickly on the day of release, which once paralyzed the official website.02|Dior联手海洋公益组织推出环保沙滩胶囊系列Dior日前发布和海洋公益组织Parley for the Oceans合作推出的沙滩装胶囊系列，该系列由品牌男装创意总监Kim Jones设计。产品涵盖运动鞋、运动凉鞋、Polo衫、沙滩包、太阳镜和沙滩外套等，均使用了Parley for the Oceans的专利材料，这种塑料主要由回收的海洋塑料垃圾和渔具制成，系列产品已经于4月14日正式发售。02|Dior joins hands with marine public welfare organization to launch environmental protection beach capsule seriesDior recently released the beach pack capsule series jointly launched with the marine public welfare organization parley for the oceans. The series is designed by Kim Jones, creative director of brand men's wear.It covers sports shoes, sports sandals, polo shirts, beach bags, sunglasses and beach coats. All of them use the patented materials of parley for the oceans. This plastic is mainly made of recycled marine plastic garbage and fishing gear. The series of products have been officially launched on 14 April.03|优衣库在伦敦开设首家与Theory的联合零售店迅销公司旗下核心品牌优衣库与Theory的联合零售店于4月21日在英国伦敦开业，该店占地面积约2万平方英尺，横跨三层，优衣库的产品会覆盖所有三层，Theory的产品则主要位于一楼。03|UNIQLO opened its first joint retail store with theory in LondonThe joint retail store of UNIQLO and Theory, the core brand of Fast Retailing, opened in London on 21 April. The store covers an area of about 20000 square feet and spans three floors. UNIQLO's products will cover all three floors, and Theory's products are mainly located on the first floor.美国内衣品牌维密4月19日宣布推出全新的数字化青少年品牌Happy Nation，主要面向8岁至13岁的青少年，提供无性别限制的内衣、泳装和身体护理产品。作为维密旗下的独立品牌，Happy Nation暂时没有开设零售店的计划，消费者可通过Happy Nation官网购买产品。04|Victoria's Secret launched the youth brand Happy NationOn 19 April, Victoria's Secret, an American underwear brand, announced the launch of a new digital youth brand Happy Nation, which mainly provides underwear, swimsuit and body care products without gender restrictions for teenagers aged 8 to 13. As an independent brand of Victoria's Secret, Happy Nation has no plan to open retail stores for the time being. Consumers can buy products through the official website of happy nation.据时尚商业快讯，继Zara和Pull&Bear后，西班牙快时尚集团旗下的Stradivarius也于日前在Zepeto APP上发布首个胶囊系列“Digital Fashion: wear the future now”，涵盖连衣裙、紧身胸衣等。该系列服饰会限时免费上架供用户体验，原价为1.9欧元至5.99欧元之间，用户可以上传自己的照片试穿想要的产品，购买后可下载照片在社交媒体平台上分享。05|Zara's parent company accelerated the layout of the companyAccording to FashionNetwork news, following Zara and Pull & Bear, Stradivarius, a subsidiary of Spain's fast fashion group, also released its first capsule series "Digital Fashion: wear the future now" on Zepeto APP a few days ago, covering dresses, corsets, etc.This series of clothes will be available for users to experience for free within a limited time. The original price is between 1.9 euros and 5.99 euros. Users can upload their own photos to try on the products they want, After purchase, you can download photos and share them on social media platforms.06|亚玛芬旗下PeakPerformance正式进入中国市场瑞典品牌PeakPerformance日前通过官方微信公众号宣布，将以“壁克峰”的名字正式进入中国市场，该品牌已于去年9月1日率先通过天猫旗舰店进行试水。品牌预计在4月30日发布微信商城小程序，并于今年第三季度开设线下首店。06|Swedish brand PeakPerformance officially entered the Chinese marketThe Swedish brand PeakPerformance has announced officially through the official account of WeChat public, and will officially enter the China market with the name of "BikeFeng". The brand was first entered Chinese market from Tmall flagship store in 1 September last year. The brand is expected to release the WeChat mall applet on 30 April and open its first offline store in the third quarter of this year.07|LVMH旗下美妆香水产品将采用可持续环保包装全球最大奢侈品集团LVMH日前宣布，将与Origin Materials Inc.签署长期战略合作协议，将从这家总部位于加州的公司采购可持续的环保材料PET，用于旗下品牌的香水和美妆产品包装。07|LVMH's beauty fragrance products will be packaged in a sustainable environment.LVMH, the world's largest luxury group, announced that it will sign a long-term strategic cooperation agreement with Origin Materials Inc., which will purchase environmentally sustainable PET materials from the California based company for its fragrance and beauty products packaging.日本美妆巨头资生堂宣布将在5月2日发布首个针对欧洲消费者的护肤品牌Ulé，由集团在欧洲和东京的两大创新中心共同研发。首个系列包含八款产品，主打垂直种植的天然植物成分，对环境友好。有业内人士估计，Ulé第一年的零售额或达1500万欧元。08|Shiseido launches skin care brand Ulé for the European marketJapanese beauty giant Shiseido announced that it would release its first skin care brand Ulé for European consumers on 2 May, which was jointly developed by the group's two innovation centers in Europe and Tokyo. The first series contains eight products, focusing on the natural plant ingredients planted vertically, which is environmentally friendly. Insiders estimate that the retail sales of Ulé in the first year may reach 15 million euros.美国奢侈品牌Coach母公司Tapestry于4月19日与海南国际经济发展局、海口综合保税区管理委员会正式签署战略合作协议，将于海南自贸港正式设立集团中国旅游零售总部。9、Coach parent company opens Chinese tourism retail headquarters in HainanTapestry, the parent company of American luxury brand Coach, officially signed a strategic cooperation agreement with Hainan International Economic Development Bureau and Haikou Comprehensive Bonded Zone Management Committee on 19 April, and will officially set up the group's China tourism retail headquarters in Hainan free trade port.受疫情封锁导致线下销售减少影响，部分欧洲时尚零售开始学习中国进行直播销售，法国奢侈品配饰电商Monnier Paris自疫情起便尝试直播销售，法国百货公司巴黎春天则于去年6月在官网以及Instagram等平台推出“En mode Printemps”直播购物频道。对直播带货更加谨慎的法国百货公司Galeries Lafayette也通过一对一视频讲解，实现了超30%的转化率，销售收入增加六倍。01|European retailers follow China's steps in live streamingAffected by the decline in physical sales caused by the COVID-19 lockdown, some European fashion retailers began to learn from China to start live streaming sales. Monnier Paris, a French online luxury accessories retailer, has tried live streaming sales since the COVID-19. French department Pinault Printemps Redoute launched its "En Mode Printemps" live shopping channel on its website and Instagram platforms in June 2021. Galeries Lafayette, a French department store that has become more cautious about live streaming, has achieved a conversion rate of more than 30% and a sixfold increase in sales through one-on-one video service.02|J.Front Retailing全年业绩明显改善4月12日，日本百货公司J.Front Retailing公布截至2022年2月的财年业绩，销售收入为3314.84亿日元，同比增长3.9%；营业利润为93.8亿日元，上一财年亏损242.65亿日元；税前利润为61.9亿日元，上一财年亏损286.72亿日元；其中，百货店部门收入增长9.7%至1907.39亿日元，营业亏损为45.97亿日元，亏损较上一财年的207.85亿日元明显收窄。02|J.front Retailing posted a marked improvementOn 12 April, Japanese department J.Front Retailing posted revenue of 331.484 billion yen for the fiscal year ended February 2022, up 3.9% from the same period last year. Operating profit was 9.38 billion yen, compared with a loss of 24.265 billion yen in the previous fiscal year; Pre-tax profit of 6.19 billion yen, compared with a loss of 28.672 billion yen in the previous fiscal year;The department store division posted a 9.7% increase in revenue to 190,739 billion yen and an operating loss of 4.597 billion yen, which narrowed from 20.785 billion yen in the previous fiscal year.据悉，LVMH大中华区最新的高管电话会议透露出了一个重要信号，即疫情的发生导致奢侈品客户结构发生变化，过去两年多只有超高净值客户数量和购买量在提升，未来LVMH将顺应超高净值人群的偏好，继续在高端产品线发力，并提高入门产品价格，剔除日益减少的无收入客户群。03|LVMH to put all attention on the upmarketLVMH’s latest executive conference in the Greater China showed an important signal, which is the COVID-19 resulted in luxury customer structure changes. Only the number of ultra-high net worth clients and purchases increased in the past two years. LVMH will comply with the ultra high net worth people's preferences, continuing innovation in the high-end product line, improving product prices, and eliminating the dwindling customer that spend fewer and fewer.Hedi Slimane加入Celine以来，品牌热度水涨船高，业务也从此前的基础上延伸至男装和香水等领域，分析预估Celine的年销售额很可能在去年已经达到20亿欧元，这意味着Hedi Slimane对Celine的年轻化和潮牌化转型快速生效，Celine已在第一个五年初步完成了集团的商业目标。为更好地服务富裕消费者，Celine正在向高端化发展，于日前推出定制手袋系列。04|Celine reached annual sales of €2 billionSince Hedi Slimane joined Celine, the brand has grown in popularity and expanded into menswear and perfumes industry, with analysts estimating that Celine's annual sales probably reached €2 billion in 2021. This means that Hedi Slimane has transformed Celine into a young and trendy quickly. Celine has initially achieved the group's commercial goals in the 5 years. Celine is going upscale to better serve affluent consumers and launched bespoke handbags earlier.4月19日，欧莱雅集团发布了2022年第一季度财报，销售额达90.6亿欧元，同比增长13.5%。另据集团表示，集团在各地区的增长十分均衡，北美地区依然势头强劲，中国大陆市场获得两位数增长，同时曾因2021年初疫情封控的新兴市场和欧洲市场也在不断加速。05|L 'Oreal's sales reached $62.5 billion in Q1On 19 April, L 'Oreal group released its financial results for Q1 of 2022, reporting sales of €9.06 billion, up 13.5% from the same period last year.According to its statement, regional growth was well-balanced, with North America remaining strong, the mainland of China registering double-digit growth, and emerging markets and Europe are accelerating after the COVID-19 lockdown in early 2021.爱马仕于近日举办年度股东大会，首席执行官Axel Dumas表示对于近期爆红的元宇宙，爱仕马处于观望阶段，认为元宇宙是一个与年轻消费者沟通交流的工具，并不急于进入虚拟世界，“我们仍会花费15个小时来制作每个手袋”。Axel Dumas在会上还透露，随着消费者逐渐习惯线上购物，品牌电商业务有78%的收入来自新消费者，未来会继续提升产能，并在纽约、上海等主要市场开设新店。06|Hermes is in no hurry to enter the MetaverseAxel Dumas, CEO of Hermes, said at the company's annual general meeting that Hermes is on the "waiting list" for the Metaverse, which have become popular recently. He sees the Metaverse as a tool to connect with young consumers, and is not in a rush to enter the virtual world. "We still spend 15 hours making each bag."Axel Dumas also revealed at the conference that the brand's e-commerce business, which generates 78% of its revenue from new customers, will continue to ramp up capacity and open new stores in key markets such as New York and Shanghai.07|Lululemon目标2026年收入达125亿美元Lululemon于日前发布了一项新的五年增长计划，目标在2026年实现125亿美元的收入。首席执行官Calvin McDonald表示，随着品牌逐渐把品类延伸至鞋履和更多的功能性服装领域，以及在西班牙和意大利等市场的扩张，未来仍有很大的成长空间。07|Lululemon is targeting $12.5 billion in revenue by 2026Lululemon unveiled a new five-year growth plan, targeting $12.5 billion in revenue by 2026. CEO Calvin McDonald said there was still plenty of room for growth as the brand gradually expanded its category into footwear and functional apparel, as well as expanding into markets such as Spain and Italy.08|Dior成为2022年威尼斯双年展的主要赞助者受疫情影响而推迟了一年的2022威尼斯双年展将于近日开幕，Dior也是其主要赞助者之一。此外，Dior还将在双年展开幕日4月23日举办一场特别的晚宴，其中一部分筹集的资金将捐赠给在意大利的乌克兰难民。晚宴的另一个目标是保护威尼斯的文化遗产，并帮助修复大运河上最美丽的宫殿之一黄金宫。08|Dior became the main sponsor of Venice Biennale Arte 2022Venice Biennale Arte 2022, which has been postponed for a year due to the COVID-19, will open recently and Dior is one of its main sponsors. In addition, Dior will hold a special dinner on 23 April, the opening day of Venice Biennale Arte 2022, and part of the funds raised will be donated to Ukrainian refugees in Italy. Another goal of the dinner was to preserve Venice's cultural heritage and help restore the Golden Palace, one of the most beautiful palaces on the Grand Canal.在截至2月28日的上半财年内，无印良品母公司经营利润大跌19.4%至188.54亿日元，净利润大跌27.5%至147.77亿日元。该跌幅主要受服装的销售疲软影响。国际市场的表现则喜忧参半，中国所在的东亚市场营业收入增幅放缓至8.9%，录得714.32亿日元，营业利润下跌3.5%至117.2亿日元。09|Muji fell 27.5% in H1 of its fiscal yearIn H1 the year to 28 February, Muji parent company's planned operating profit plunged 19.4% to 18.854 billion yen, while net profit plunged 27.5%t to 14.777 billion yen.The decline was mainly affected by weak clothing sales. International performance was mixed, with revenue growth in East Asia, where China is located, slowing 8.9% to 71.432 billion yen and operating profit falling 3.5% to 11.72 billion yen.投融资
Investment and Financing
01|Next收购母婴品牌Jojo Maman Bébé
Next离英国最大服饰零售商又近了一步，于日前对冲基金Davidson Kempner联合收购英国母婴品牌Jojo Maman Bébé，还利用自己的现金储备对该品牌进行了1630万英镑的投资。交易完成后Next将持有44%的股份，剩余的56%股权会由Davidson Kempner管理或建议的投资公司拥有。目前Jojo Maman Bébé在英国经营着87家实体店，拥有近1000名员工。01|Next acquires mother and baby brand JOJO Maman BéBéNext is one step closer to Britain's largest clothing retailer. A few days ago, hedge fund Davidson Kempner jointly acquired the British mother and baby brand JOJO Maman BéBé and invested £ 16.3 million in the brand with its own cash reserves.After the transaction is completed, Next will hold 44% of the shares, and the remaining 56% of the shares will be owned by the investment company managed or recommended by Davidson Kempner. Currently, JOJO Maman BéBé operates 87 physical stores in the UK with nearly 1000 employees. 02|Gucci母公司老板斥资逾10亿欧元收购法国流媒体平台DeezerGucci母公司开云集团首席执行官François-Henri Pinault对当代艺术和音乐一直有着敏锐的洞察力，于日前宣布将通过其创立的SPAC公司12PO与流媒体平台 Deezer合并并上市，该交易对Deezer的估值为10.5亿欧元。02|The boss of Gucci's parent company spent more than 1 billion euros to acquire Deezer, a French streaming media platform
François-Henri Pinault, CEO of Kiring group, the parent company of Gucci, has always had a keen insight into contemporary art and music. Recently, he announced that he would merge and list with Deezer, a streaming media platform, through his founded SPAC company 12PO. The transaction valued Deezer at 1.05 billion euros.03|L Catterton有意出售奢侈珠宝商John Hardy套现2亿美元据彭博社援引消息人士透露，LVMH控股的全球最大消费品基金L Catterton有意出售其收购已经8年的奢侈珠宝商John Hardy，套现约2亿美元。03|L catterton intends to sell luxury jeweler John Hardy for $200 millionAccording to sources quoted by Bloomberg, L Catterton, the world's largest consumer goods fund controlled by LVMH, intends to sell its acquisition of luxury jeweler John Hardy for eight years, cashing in about $200 million.
